Each Cook Should Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.